FAQ

STANDSTILL is based on medical technology – skin-neutral, transparent, and ultra-flexible – making it easy to position even on complex body areas. It’s removable, repositionable, and leaves no stains, while capturing everything from fine lines to detailed portraits with high-definition precision.

The material we use for the transfer film is a medical-grade form of polymeric alcohol (PVA), which is already used for decades in sensitive medical applications, such as eye drops and even in the treatment of blood vessels. STANDSTILL is also organic, eco-friendly, sustainable, vegan, hypoallergenic and Made in Germany!

Yes! STANDSTILL is safe and approved for tattooing. The process is patented, and during the patent process, the material's medical compatibility for tattooing was thoroughly evaluated. The material itself is not new, it is made from medical-grade PVA (polymeric alcohol), a material that is certified for medical use.

Read more about safety here

You can use any standard inkjet printer with a front-loading paper tray (bottom feed). Printers like HP Envy usually have this type of tray. We use HP Envy 6030. Just make sure you use original ink cartridges. Bonus Tip: The backing paper can be reused as regular printing paper, making the process even more eco-friendly!

Use a skin disinfectant spray with a spray nozzle that creates a fine mist. We use Kodan, for example. The ingredients don’t matter as long as it doesn’t contain oils — the fine mist is what matters most.

STANDSTILL is designed primarily for lining and dotwork. Since the film is water-soluble, it won’t hold up under heavy shading or color packing. After completing the outlines, simply dissolve the film with green soap and distilled water to continue with shading. We recommend using needles up to 9 RL.

Yes, you definitely should! Vaseline helps the needles to pass through and makes the film temporarily water-resistant so that ink drops won't dissolve the film. Make sure to dab excess ink instead of wiping while tattooing.

Start with dot work to get a feel for the film, then gradually move on to lines. When doing lines, feel free to make confident strokes – without hesitation and not too slowly.

Don’t start with pure black right away – better to begin with a light to midtone black. In the beginning, the outlines can look like they were sketched with a hard pencil. This is normal during the adjustment phase.

Increase the voltage on your machine by one or two volts if needed.